England
Beer list
Pub list
Belgian beer

The Beer Research Project (BRP)

[ update 5/3/00 ] No time to read all of this? Check out the Beer List and the Pub List for a quick reference. There is also a special BRP report on Belgian beer.

Where to begin

The legitimate place to get beer is a pub and or restaurant. There is no shortage of either. You can also get beer in off-license stores: these range from "7-11"-type convenience stores to supermarkets. In the interest of thorough research, we've tried all types of venues. Here then are some of the better pubs we've been to (field work) and some of the bottled/canned stuff we've had (homework.)

Field Work: Pubs

From all of the lamenting at the Campaign for Real Ale (aka CAMRA) it seems the British pub is floundering as a social institution and as a place to quaff a quality pint. The big brewers have taken over many pubs and serve "convenience" beer rather than real ale; corny "theme" pubs abound, and there are too many big screen TVs. That may be so, but we've had the luck to run into two very good pubs in York that serve the good stuff, and a few others that are pleasant as well.

The Maltings Pub

We were happy to find this place. It is a very reasonable walk from our house, with lots of tasty brews on tap, including guest beers like Schneider weissbier from Germany, which we hadn't seen here. The barkeep even knew to rinse the weissbier glass in water before filling it--a nice touch. It is small but was not too crowded when we visited. We didn't eat, but we've read that the food is good. On Monday nights a duo plays acoustic blues.

There are always about 7 beers available. We've tried the Schneider weisse and Black Sheep Ale and the fantastic Rooster Millenium Beer. The Rooster Yankee Ale and Hooligan are both fine, as is the Church Yard Thing-ee. The list goes on...

The Minster Inn

This pub is very close to our house. It has several small rooms with tables and it was very tight--standing room only--on our first visit. Later, as some seats opened up, it was more relaxing. It really had the feeling of having a drink in someone's sitting room (with 20 strangers, of course.)

We enjoyed the wonderful Victoria Ale and the Theakston's Best Bitter, the "Grim Reaper" and the Black Sheep Best Bitter. The John Smith's is, honestly, not that good.

The Hole in the Wall

This was an early favorite, since it is on the route we take to the Minster and the supermarket. They serve beer from Mansfield brewery (Ridings Bitter), and the very nice Kronenbourg 1664 and some guest beers. It is very close to The Minster, and there seem to be a number of tourists there. Like we used to be.

The York Brewery

We had tried the beer, both on draught and bottled, and we wanted a look at the source. We took a spur-of-the-moment walk over to the Brewery tap room one evening. It was crowded and the music was loud--someone was having a leaving work party--and we discovered that it is a drinking club. You must be a member of a guest to drink there. The barkeep signed us in, so we could have a nice Centurion's Ghost and a Yorkshire Terrier. The room is OK, but it doesn't seem it would be worth the £18 (for two) membership price.

The Kings Arms

Although this pub right on the river is in Camra's "no-go zone" because it doesn't server real ale, we had a good time here. The beer was German, and the Saturday night crowd was elbow to ribcage. There was a real coal fire and a few Vikings from the weekend festivities for added atmosphere.

The Roman Bath

Beneath the pub there is, indeed, the remains of a Roman bath. We haven't seen it, but we glimpsed the Guinness and Kronenbourg 1664.

Old Star Inn

A quiet out-of-the-way feeling pub in the middle of tourist York. Nice atmosphere--including a non-smoking room.

New Inn (Clapham)

A nice atmosphere, filled with walkers having a break, and a friendly, creaking, 14 year-old dog. Served Dent Brewery guest ales, including Fells Beck Bitter and Ramsbatten.

Chains

There are a few chain pubs in York. We visited Varsity and Pitcher and Piano. Both are new and have nice riverside locations with lots of wood and glass. Both cater (it seems) to a younger crowd, and are packed on weekend nights. Both are booooring. And expensive to boot. Hogshead has a nice interior--brick vaulted ceilings--and a few real ales, including the nice Castle Eden. It was packed with college students on a Saturday evening.

Miscellaneous

We tried Old Speckled Hen, a local Oxford beer, when we visited Oxford. It was good, but probably not the best choice with English-Tex-Mex food. I also tried some York Brewery Swing Low with lunch at a pub in Heslington. Nice, but not memorable.

Homework: Bottles and Cans

In the interest of research, we've tried several store-bought beers: Tetley's Bitter, John Smith Bitter, Boddington's Draught Bitter, Caffrey's Bitter, Grolsch (for a break from bitter) and none of these are really noteworthy. It might be that the cans with the foam-y widget in the bottom (for that real draught head) makes everything taste the same... We were getting concerned about this until we hit upon these (all in bottles, except where noted)...

Theakston's Brewery

Best Bitter (among my favorites, although the canned version isn't as good as the bottled), Strong Yorkshire Ale and Old Peculier. All very wonderful, from a Yorkshire brewery.

Paul Theakston Black Sheep Brewery

We've tried these several times, to make sure the excellent results can be reproduced: Yorkshire Square Ale, Black Sheep Ale, Riggwelter^[1]. I really, really like these. Paul Theakston broke away from the family brewery (thus, Black Sheep.)

Cropton Brewery

Two Pints Bitter (so called because one pint of it is worth two of another beer) -- luv-lay. A local Yorkshire brewer.

Timothy Taylor's

Landlord is hoppy and crisp -- reminds me of Tupper's Hop Pocket Ale back in Virginia.

The York Brewery

We've sampled ("Brewed within the City Walls") Yorkshire Terrier, which was OK. I'll try to some of the other offerings form this brewery on a site visit.

We had a beer at the Brewery in early January -- the Centurion's Ale was very nice. There was a going-away party while we were there, so it was quite noisy and smoky.

Fuller's

Extra Special Bitter (ESB) is full-flavored and full-strength. This might be available in the States.

St. Peter's

Wheat Beer -- well it really doesn't taste like a wheat beer, but it is nice, anyway. The Golden Ale was also nice, but unremarkable.

Original Budweiser Budvar

The namesake of the crappy US beer. This version is really good: 500ml of pure beer pleasure.

Castle Eden Brewery

Castle Eden Special Ale -- brewed to celebrate the return to local ownership of the oldest brewery in the North East (it says so right on the bottle.) And it tastes good, too. One of my top 3 or 4 choices.

Exmoor Ales - Golden Hill Brewery

The Exmoor Gold ("The Original Golden Ale") is very good - another one of my favorites.

Frederic Robinson

Frederics Premium Beer ("Brewed from an All Malt Grist") is dry-hopped, with a crisp taste.

Wychwood Brewery

Old Father Time Millennium Ale ("MCMXCIC - MM") is malty and pleasant. Fiddler's Elbow is OK, too.

^[1] Riggwelter: from the Old Norse; rygg (back) and velte (to overturn). When a sheep is on its back and cannot get up without help, local dales dialect says it is rigged or riggwelted. The name may be a reference to the beer's 5.7% alcohol content.

Research Results

This research will result in the production of a series of Pub Crawls. This series will be in the reserve section and you must apply in person to see it.